Ujoh Fall 2025: Back to School
Adrianna Papell Cascading Floral Embroidery Illusion Boat Neck Short Sleeve Gown
Anyone who wore a uniform to class will understand where Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki were coming from. Ujoh’s designers looked back on their school days in the ’90s, and how kids played with details of their attire to express what little creative freedom they could. They drew parallels with trying to push the boundaries of Ujoh and further define the label’s creative vision within their specific design vocabulary, which is built around precise pattern-cutting, Mitsuru Nishizaki explained through an interpreter backstage before the show. The theme offered a playful backdrop for Ujoh’s creatively layered and asymmetric tailoring, made from wool gabardine or brushed flannel twill this season, the latter for a time-weathered look. The Nishizakis’ familiar tab-fronted or cropped suit jackets, in uniform shades of brown, gray and navy with touches of lime or sky blue, were paired with layered half-skirts or short pants. There were hybrids between a suit collar and a sailor neckline with long, sleeve-like ties, mid-length pleated skirts and rugby sweaters worn several sizes too big. Legwarmers were styled like droopy socks, and quilted winter jackets were evoked in blanket-like skirts in shiny recycled polyamide. The only pattern in the collection this season was a black flower embroidered in repeat on a white bias-cut skirt, intended to symbolize tulip bulbs traditionally given to schoolchildren in Japan so they can learn to nurture them through the seasons. A textured jacquard was woven by hand with ribbons and hand-cut threads, reminiscent of a fake fur thrown on casually, a blue shirt sleeve exposed underneath, for instance. A deconstructed black shearling aviator jacket, open at the shoulders, was a strong outerwear statement. For the finale, the models emerged chatting and laughing to sit on vintage classroom chairs placed in the middle of the runway, enhancing the sense of youthful insouciance with a touch of rebellion.
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